7.30
for breaky at our Casa, the other 3 ladies walked from theirs to ours. Same
fruit, pineapple juice, scrambled eggs, coffee, warm bread, butter and guava
jam.
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Jeannie, Margot, Glenda at our Casa for breaky, Cienfuegos. |
We
were actually ready early, off to walk to central Cienfuegos, lots of old
Colonial buildings.
A couple of dogs joined us for our walk. Many people out
and about for a busy shopping morning. Down the main street to Jose Martin
square, City Hall, statues etc.
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Side street looking out to the Bay of Pigs in Cienfuegos. |
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Loved that even the 4wds are old. Here's poor old Willy having some car troubles. A common problem in Cuba, there are no new parts and spare parts are hard to come by. |
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Very proud to show off his car. |
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The telltale bonnet up with tow rope. |
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A busy house along the way. |
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These guys were piling into the cab, with beers in hand at 9am, they were keen for Suzie to take a photo...I think the guy in brown was bearing his bum tatt. |
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Cienfuegos the city I love more...or something like that. |
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Not sure if this was a humber. Someone will know. |
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An old mansion, now belongs to a radio station. |
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These are the fumigators, the government is doing its best to reduce the spread of Zika, all houses are fumigated. The inhabitants have to vacate for 45 minutes after fumigation. |
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The main street of Cienfuegos, Big wide street with pedestrian mall/walkway down the centre of the road.. |
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A typical street corner. Horses and carts, bikes, sidecars, pedestrians, buses and cars. |
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Horses and carts are used for many things, as taxis, as family vehicle, for cartage. A very regular sight, as car ownership is very low in Cuba. |
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A statue, this side celebrates the hard workers, this guy is wielding his sledge hammer. |
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The icecream shop. |
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Some more government progaganda. Gentleman without blemish or fear. |
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Cienfuegos lays claim to famous musician - Benny More. This is one of our little dog mates, who walked along with us for more than an hour. He another guys latched onto or little walking group, they even waited with us to cross roads. |
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Benny and I. |
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A pretty cool looking dude. |
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The fumigators mate, doing the paperwork. |
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Here is our little mate waiting patiently for us to come out of a souvenir shop in main mall. He was so patient. Jeannie was captivated by these two, she even brought some fresh ham off the bone (destined for human consumption with a roll) to feed them with. |
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Delivery guy. |
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Flower seller. |
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Our other little mate. He went AWOL for while but joined us again in the mall. Unfortunately the dogs weren't interested in Jeannie's ham. They left us soon after this photo. |
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This is the guy making ham rolls. This is where Jeannie got her meat for our dogs. |
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Another delivery guy. |
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Old sidecar. |
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Cienfuegos City Hall I think. |
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Another of the mansions, I loved the blue domed tower. |
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An old car parked in front of Rotunda in the main Plaza. |
We stopped for a drink at a small bar, where
there was a girl all dressed up in a meringue gown, we thought it was a wedding
or photo shoot until Yaniel explained that this happens on the girls 15th
birthday, sort of like a deb, where they dress up to enter adulthood.
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This girl was using the cafe restrooms, she had a make up artist doing the face, then stepped out into the light for photos. |
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We saw this often in streets of Cienfuegos and Trinidad. Blokes (mainly) taking their birds for a walk. Some carried them on their bikes too. |
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The theatre. |
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This was an education institution of some sort. Pre-university I think Yaniel said. |
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Looking down the length of the Main Plaza. |
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A pigeon. |
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Lots of Lada's everywhere. |
Final destination was the port, where we met our van, quickly back to Casa’s to collect
luggage, check out and head to Trinidad, with a quick detour to collect my hat which I
had stupidly left at the Restaurant last night, thankfully I realised as soon
as we went to walk, Yaniel was able to call them and ascertain it was still
there.
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An interesting billboard. Cuba punching Uncle Sam. |
En
route we saw the Guamuhaya Mountain range to our left.
Trinidad
was founded in 1514 and was developed around the sugar cane industry. There
were wealthy sugar barons, huge haciendas and African slaves were imported to
provide the labour. Slavery was eventually abolished in 1886.
Trinidad,
as with all of Cuba has a complex history. The area was prosperous until the
1885 war against Spain, when things began a steady decline and the area and its
people really struggled until tourism came to town around '89 I think. Yaniel
described it as a very touristic town, with many museums and old buildings from
the 18th and 19th centuries. It is famous for a drink
‘canchánchurra’ (honey, lime juice and rum with ice.) Playa Ancon, the beach is
10km away.
We
arrived at our Casa’s – we are spread across 3, I am alone in Casa La Fruta,
with Joellis and Irael, their daughter Oxanna and Joellis’ mum Maria. Margot
and Glenda have the most palatial place owned by Gladys, who is the Locally
Sourced Cuba Tours contact here. My Casa is great, a real family who want to
interact. Suzie and Jeannie, not so great, so will move tomorrow night.
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My room at Casa La Fruta. |
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Stylish Shower curtain. |
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The front sitting room, looks out onto verandah over street. |
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Front door with ornate metalwork and my front room balcony up there. |
Once
settled, we headed off for our walking tour, after a delicious lunch at San
Jose Restaurant. Very good service, the food was good too and prices
reasonable, we were lucky (or so we thought) to score a table in the air
conditioned section, it was SOOO hot out we were most appreciative, only to
find that it was almost too cold, we all had goosebumps, but no one wanted to
complain as we knew it was terribly hot outside. The toilet labels were notable
too.
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San Jose for lunch. |
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The loo labels. Ladies to the left, gentleman to the right. |
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The butcher just down the road on our street. |
On
our way to the Old Town, we stopped at a nearby bank to change some notes for
smaller denominations. Having small change and a variety of notes has been a
real challenge. We need small 25c coins for toilet tips, $1 cuc for photos at
times, and generally a lot of places won’t take our $20 cuc notes, they just
don’t have change. There is a $3 cuc note too, which we all find a fascinating
value.
The
Old Town is cobblestone and basically Spanish Colonial architecture painted in
a range of colours. Of particular interest and the subject of MANY photos is
the vast assortment of grates/bars/wrought iron/wooden covers - called Barrotes over windows and shutters
and doors.
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Infant school. Sleep time in the arvo. All the kids laid out on stretchers sleeping. |
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An oldie. |
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The colour tones of the bougainvillea were stunning. |
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Doorways and barrotes |
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Alcoholics anonymous. |
The other really noticeable thing is the amount of people out on the
streets, some are just leaning on the barrotes, chatting with the people
inside, or sitting on their steps talking to each other, lolling about on
walls, or gathering at small cafeteria’s and other shops. Lots of people out
socialising, communicating and moving through the streets.
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The Plaza Mayor - a greyhound on guard. One for the Fearnley's. |
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Up close. |
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More plaza. |
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Plaza. |
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Plaza Mayor - the church. |
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Loved these urn type decorations. |
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Very stylish plaza. |
Saw
my first instance of the Cubans using their Government Ration card to purchase
staple items – beans, rice, salt, oil, spaghetti. This is all subsidised by the
Government. Yaniel indicated that his rations for him, his wife and two baby
girls cost only a few pesos per month.
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Ration shop, weighing the beans. |
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Pouring them into the plastic bag. You can see the oil purchase, in an old soft drink bottle. |
It
was a hot day today, luckily we lunched late and for most of our walking tour
the sun was behind clouds – boy was it stifling when it came out.
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more goods behind a barrote. |
Back to
Casa’s for a few hours before meeting for dinner at 6.45. I cooled off for a
while, then went for a wander – got some postcards and stamps. Yes for some of
you reading this, there is a postcard on the way, but I reckon I will beat it
home by weeks and weeks. I spent 5 minutes or so at the Wi-Fi Park to check in
with the world, finally some success with the ETECSA cards we had purchased in Havana.
I had to get home to ready for dinner.
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Home in our taxi. |
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Street seller. |
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Cleaning up his carrots. |
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My fridge at Casa, well stocked is an understatement. |
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Horse and cart sign. |
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Doors of Trinidad. |
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Looking into the barber shop. |
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Roof tiles for wall cladding. |
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Typical cobblestone street, horses, old cars. |
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Barrotes of Trinidad. |
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Doors of Trinidad. |
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Street art. |
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Maceo...maybe. |
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I''m not sure who this is. |
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Found these guys in a courtyard playing dominoes. They were slamming the tiles down, it was good to watch. |
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Doing something to the house. |
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Welding a Barrote. |
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Back past the infant school, they've gone home and things are set up ready for the new day. |
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Have welder, will weld. |
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An extension upstairs. |
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a bike seller. |
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The Cubans are obsessed with the Apple logo, Here tis on a bike, in place of number plate. Many cars had the Apple shape cut out of their tinted windows, as a view hole for the mirror. |
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The cactus (brings good luck) on my Casa balcony |
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Into the taxi, maybe this was our trip home this arvo. |
Tea
was at a place called Guittarra Mia – owned by one of the guitarists from the
famous Buena Vista Social Club, now run by his son. They have their own
cocktail – Guittarra Mia (The Hause Secret) which Margot and I opted for – coffee liqueur,
cacao and run with ice, it was delicious, so good in fact we both went for
seconds.
My
Seafood mix contained lobster, shrimp and fish; it was a whole tail for not
much. Cocktails are cheap – between $2 and $4 cuc (basically equivalent to our
dollars.) Food, while not sensational here is Cuba is great and cheap, for 5 of
us it is around $10 - $15 cuc per head – including cocktails.
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One wall of decor. |
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Dinner, with guitar cut out of sweet spud and music notes and treble clef on the plate |
Then
a ‘special’ birthday cake, basically a custard caramel, with a hint of banana
and the most amazing ‘firework/sparkler’ type candle/flame, that went for ages
and a Spanish rendition of Happy Birthday sung by the resident guitarist,
lights out and all. Thanks to Suzie and Yaniel for arranging this, seems were
some ‘issues’ in getting it to happen.
Whenever
something is not quite right, or not what we westerners would expect Yaniel
refers to it as ‘issues.’ Some issues tourists experience in Cuba include poor
water pressure, lack of hot water and the requirement to put loo paper in the
bin not the bowl.
Then
we went back to the Wi-Fi park for a while to check in again. Good service, no
worries. Home to bed, however Joellis and Irael were keen for me to sit and
chat with them in their front room. I did so for an hour or so – Joellis has
good English, but Irael is a bit hard. They have a lovely little dog called
T-phung (this is phonetic, as I have no clue how to spell it.) Chatted about
Australia vs Austria and about myself, them and their lives. She is a primary
teacher, but no work here at the moment. I think Irael works in the country,
connected to fruit. They are very proud of their Casa called La Fruta to capitalise
on their fruit connections and also to reflect the healthiness of fruit and the
bright colours of fruit as well.
Great description and photos. Almost feel I am on the trip with you.
ReplyDeleteLooking forward to the next instalment.
Quote of this day: A couple of dogs joined us for our walk! Almost too afraid to ask....what is the animal welfare like? We're you're little mates strays? They must be quite content as they passed on the ham offerings!
ReplyDeleteSecond favourite quite from this blog: I am alone in Casa La Fruta........
ReplyDeleteLoved the undies toilet signs tho some women's undies may look more like the men's ones!
The there was a 'lone gourd.....' Cuba seems to be quite a lonely place!
ReplyDelete